Beaded welting and method of making the same



June 5, 1934. w J FALLQN JR 1,961,345

BEADED WELTING AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Nov. 29, 1932 Fig.5 Fig.6 5%,??? Eg. 8

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ATTORNEY Patented June 5, 1934 UNITED STATES BEADED WELTING AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME William J. Fallon, Jr Boston, Mass.

Application November 29, 1932, Serial No. 644,867

3 Claims.

This invention relates to a novel form of beaded member adapted to be secured in the crease of a shoe between the welt and shoe upper, and to pleasing appearance in the finished shoe.

It has been proposed heretofore to form the bead as an integral part of the welt and also to construct it separately from the welt so that it may be secured thereto, and since welting for boots and shoes is usually made of expensive high grade leather it is important that the leather stock be cut to the best possible advantage.

The present invention, therefore contemplates a novel method of forming a strip of welting and a strip of beaded member so that both may be produced without using any more leather stock than was required heretofore to produce a corresponding quantity of ordinary Goodyear welting. In this manner a substantial saving in the expensive leather stock is secured.

Important features of the present invention resides in the novel beaded member and in the welt to which the beaded member may be secured, it being contemplated that the beaded member and welt may be secured together by the welt manufactured or may be sold separately as desired.

The invention in its various aspects and the novel method will be best understood from the ollowing description when read in connection with the accompanying drawing showing one embodiment of the invention.

In the drawing:

Fig. 1 is a perspective View of a strip of welt stock having a thin sheet of the grain leather partially removed therefrom;

Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the welt stock of Fig. 1 having a notch formed in one face thereof;

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of the stock of Fig. 2 after the same has been split by a diagonal cut;

Fig. 4 is a perspective view of the bead forming stock of Fig. 3 having a groove formed in one face thereof;

Fig. 5 is a transverse sectional View of the stock of Fig. 4 shaped to form the beaded member;

Fig. 5 is a View similar to Fig. 5 but shows a thin covering sheet applied about the bead;

Fig. 7 is a sectional view of the beveled welt strip of Fig. 3;

Fig. 8 is a sectional View showing the beaded member of Fig. 6 secured to the welt strip of Fig. 7 to form the beaded welt;

Fig. 9 is a transverse sectional view through a portion. of a shoe provided with the beaded welting of Fig. 8; and

Fig. 10 is a view similar to modified feature.

In carrying out the present invention a strip of leather stock 10 such as employed heretofore in forming Goodyear welting may be provided, and a thin sheet of the grain stock 11 is preferably removed from the stock 10. The sheet 11 may be removed either before or after the leather stock is cut into the narrow welt forming strip 10.

The strip 10 from which the grain stock 11 has been removed preferably has the longitudinally extending notch 12 formed in one face thereof as shown in Fig. a. The strip 10 is then severed by a diagonal cut to form the welt forming strip 13 and the bead forming stock it as shown in Fig. 3, and this out is preferably formed so that it extends from the bottom of the notch 12 to the lower corner of the strip 10 and produces a strip 14 that is wedge shaped in cross section as shown.

The head forming strip or stay 14 it should be noted has substantially the shape of a right angle triangle in cross section with the thin feather edge removed by the cut forming the notch 12, and as will be apparent from Fig. 4, a groove 15 is formed in the stock 14 so that it extends inwardly from the hypotenuse of the triangle and. is spaced sufficiently from the side wall of the triangle to form the rib or bead 16.

It is desirable to provide the bead 16 with a relatively flat laterally extending flange adapted to hold the head in place in the crease of the finished shoe, and this is readily accomplished by subjecting the tapered portion at one side of the groove 15 to sufficient pressure to flatten it out as shown in Fig. 5 to thereby produce the upstanding bead 16 having the laterally extending flange 17.

It may be desirable to cover the bead 16 to give it a more pleasing appearance and the thin sheet of grain leather 11 removed from the stock 10 may well be employed for this purpose. The sheet 11 may be folded snugly about the head 16, as shown in Fig. 6, and may be adhesively secured in place, or if desired it may be held in place by a row of stitches 18, as shown in Fig. 10.

The strip of welting 13 preferably has its feather edge 19 cut off and has the usual stitch receiving groove 20 formed in its lower face as shown in Fig '7. This welt strip may have the beaded member of Fig. 6 secured by an adhesive to its beveled face, as shown in Fig. 8, to form a strip of beaded welting, or if desired, the welting of Fig. 7 and beaded member of Fig. 6 may be sold separately to be supplied to the shoe from separate sources of supplies as the parts of the shoe are sewed together by the machine forming the binding stitch 21.

It will be seen from the foregoing that both the Fig. 6 showing a welt strip of Fig. 'l and beaded member of Fig. 6, are formed in accordance with the present invention, from the welt length of Fig. 1 without requiring any additional stock, so that a sub-. stantial saving in leather is secured. It should also be noted that by cutting the welt length 10 as herein disclosed a shoulder 22 is provided which is well adapted to position and help support the bead 16 when these parts are assembled as shown in Figs. 8 and 9.

The portion of the shoe shown in Fig. 9 may have the usual upper 23, inner sole 24 and outer sole 25, and the inner sole and upper are secured to the beaded member and welt by the usual row of stitches 21. The outer sole 25 and welt 13 are secured together by the outsole stitches 26.

What is claimed is:-

1. The method of forming beaded welting, which consists in cutting a notch longitudinally in one face of a length of welting to provide the welting with a bead-positioning shoulder, removing from the length of welting by a bevel cut extending to said notch a strip that is wedge shaped in cross section, cutting a groove longitudinally of said strip so that the stock at one side of the groove will form a bead while a tapered portion lies at the other side thereof, and flattening out said tapered portion to provide at one side of the bead an integral compressed flange extending laterally from the bead and adapted to secure the bead to a length of welting.

2. As an article of manufacture, a beaded welt for use in making shoes, comprising a strip of welting having a substantial portion of its upper face cut away to provide the welting with a beadsupporting shoulder and beveled face sloping therefrom, and a separate bead member consisting of an upstanding bead and a flange extending laterally from the bead and adapted to be secured upon said beveled face with the bead resting against said shoulder to hold the bead memher in place upon the welting.

3. As an article of manufacture, a beaded welt for use in making shoes, comprising a strip of welting having a bead-forming member out there from so as to form upon the welting a bead supporting shoulder and bevel face sloping from the shoulder, and said bead forming member being shaped to form a bead having an integral flange extending laterally therefrom and adapted to be secured upon said beveled face with the bead resting against the shoulder to hold the bead member in place upon the welting.

WILLIAM J. FALLON, JR. 

